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Men's Clothing


I offer these tidbits on Men's clothing.


Most off-the-shelf trousers are too tapered resulting in a small ankle area which don't fall nicely on your shoes and which make your feet look big.  Look for "boot-cut" trousers: trousers which are more or less parallel from top to bottom.  Aim for these regardless of the current fashion in tapering.  In a word, tapered trousers make you look vaguely ridiculous. 

When you have your trouser length adjusted by your tailor ask him or her to make them slightly shorter in front.  Avoid a simple angle which results in points at the front and back, instead you want a straight line in front for about three inches, then a diagonal fall of a half inch or so over two inches and a straight line in back.  I call it the S-curve.


Consider having your tailor remove the collars from your casual shirts.  Collars which don't button down flap in the breeze and never look tidy.  Just get rid of them.


Ensure that your sport jackets and suit jackets are not too long.  If you are less than 6 feet tall, try on a short.  If the shop has no short jackets go elsewhere.


Shop carefully, learn to recognize real and apparent quality regardless of price.  Ensure that there is a little air space around your shoulders - but not too much.  


Silk or nothing (well, mostly).

Business Shirts

Let me confess that I've rarely worn a business shirt with cufflinks.  It just seems a little pretentious.  But if you can pull it off without feeling self-conscious, go for it.  There are sub-cultures where they are de rigueur.

Here are the features that I consider essential in a business shirt:

  • wrinkle resistant
  • at least one pocket
  • a second button on the cuff
  • a second button up the sleeve, in addition to the cuff button
  • a pleat at the back
  • a decorative seam along left side of the front button row
  • flat felled seams everywhere
  • a subtle sheen
  • a button down collar or at least not a wide collar angle

Iron in this order

  • shoulders
  • sleeves
  • front panels
  • back panels
  • inside (hidden) side of collar (don't "iron in" the fold)


There is a certain design the doesn't pinch and that stays up.  According to Holeproof, they undertook computer analysis and determined that, unlike most socks, the best design is the have less elastic toward the top.  Try it, you won't go back.  My socks never fall down.


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